How to Negotiate a Car Price at the Dealership (and Actually Win)
Car dealerships train their salespeople extensively in negotiation. Most buyers walk in unprepared and leave paying more than they had to. With a few hours of preparation, you can level the playing field significantly.
Before You Set Foot in a Dealership
Know What You Want to Pay
Invoice price vs. MSRP: The MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price) is the sticker price — the number the dealer wants. The invoice price is what the dealer paid the manufacturer. Your target should be near invoice or below.
Where to find this information:
- TrueCar — shows what others paid in your area
- Edmunds — invoice prices and "Edmunds Price Promise"
- CarGurus — shows how a price compares to the market
- KBB (Kelley Blue Book) — trade-in and purchase values
For used cars, check multiple sources (Carmax prices, dealer listings in your area, private party sales) to understand market value.
Get Pre-Approved for Financing
Do this before you shop, not after. Get pre-approved through your bank, credit union, or an online lender (LightStream, Capital One Auto Finance, etc.).
This does two things:
- Shows you your actual interest rate so you can compare to dealer financing
- Removes their ability to use financing as a negotiating lever
You can still use dealer financing if they beat your pre-approved rate — but now it's optional, not necessary.
Know Your Trade-In Value
If you have a car to trade in, know its value before you arrive. Get quotes from:
- Carmax (their offer is valid for 7 days and is a cash offer — use it as your floor)
- Carvana, Vroom, or similar online buyers
- KBB Instant Cash Offer
Never reveal your trade-in before you've agreed on the price of the new car. Keep them separate in the negotiation.
At the Dealership: The Negotiation
Focus on Total Price, Not Monthly Payment
This is the single biggest mistake buyers make. The dealer will constantly try to redirect you to "what monthly payment are you comfortable with?" A lower monthly payment achieved by extending the loan term costs you more money, not less.
Always say: "Let's focus on the total price of the vehicle first."
Make a Specific, Low Opening Offer
Don't wait for them to name a price and then negotiate down. Make the first offer — at or slightly below invoice price for new cars, or at 10-15% below asking for used cars.
Say it flatly, without apologizing: "Based on my research, I'd like to pay $[X] for this vehicle, out the door, before taxes and fees."
If they immediately accept, you probably left money on the table — most opening offers leave room for negotiation.
"Out the Door" Price
Always negotiate "out the door" (OTD) — meaning the final price including taxes, dealer fees, and registration. Dealers love to add fees at the end that inflate the agreed-upon price. By negotiating OTD from the start, you're negotiating the total you'll write the check for.
Handle Objections
Common things you'll hear and how to respond:
"That's not possible on this vehicle." Stay calm: "I understand, but that's the number that works for me. Is there any flexibility here?"
"I'd have to check with my manager." Normal part of the process. Wait patiently.
"We're selling this model above sticker right now due to demand." Leave if true (don't pay over MSRP on non-rare vehicles). Shop elsewhere.
"This deal is only good today." Classic pressure tactic. Rarely true. "I'm making a large purchase and need to make a decision I'm comfortable with. I'm not in a rush."
Silence Is Your Friend
Make your offer, then stop talking. Silence is uncomfortable for salespeople. Don't fill the silence by weakening your own offer.
If they present a counter and you're not ready to respond, say "Let me think about that" and stay quiet.
The Best Time to Buy
- End of month: Salespeople have quotas to hit
- End of quarter: Especially March, June, September, December
- End of model year: When new models arrive, dealers discount old inventory aggressively
- Weekdays: Less busy, more flexible salespeople
The Finance Office: Where Dealers Make It Back
Once you've agreed on the vehicle price, you'll sit with the finance manager to sign paperwork. This is where dealerships often recover margin they lost in negotiation.
You'll be offered:
- Extended warranty (service contract): Often heavily marked up. Research the specific plan and price online before accepting. You can often buy manufacturer-certified plans cheaper afterward.
- GAP insurance: Covers the difference between what you owe and what the car is worth if it's totaled. Can make sense for financed vehicles with small down payments, but often cheaper through your own insurance company.
- Paint/fabric protection: Almost never worth the price.
- Tire and wheel protection: Sometimes reasonable — evaluate the actual coverage.
- Credit life/disability insurance: Almost always overpriced. Skip.
On every offer, ask: "What does this specific contract cover exactly, what's the deductible, and what's the total cost?" Then research the same coverage through other sources.
Check the Dealer Financing Rate
Dealers can mark up the interest rate from what the lender actually approved. A lender might approve you at 6.5%, but the dealer can offer you 8.5% and pocket the difference.
Ask: "What rate did I qualify for from the lender directly?" or "What's the buy rate on this loan?"
If they won't tell you, compare their offered rate to your pre-approved rate and go with the better one.
Trade-In Tactics
Once the vehicle price is agreed upon, introduce your trade-in.
Show them your Carmax/Carvana quote. Dealers will often match or beat it to make the deal convenient for you. If they won't match, sell your car separately — Carmax has physical locations where you can complete the sale.
Never let the trade-in discussion happen before the vehicle price is agreed. The dealer can use creative math to give you "more" for your trade-in while making up for it on the vehicle price.
Walk Away Power
The most powerful negotiating tool is your willingness to leave. If a dealer won't meet a reasonable price and your research confirms you can buy the same vehicle for less elsewhere, get up and walk.
Dealers will often call back within 24-48 hours with a better offer when they realize you're serious. If they don't, there are other dealerships.
Buying Used Cars: Additional Tips
- Insist on a pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic (usually $100-150)
- Run a vehicle history report (Carfax or AutoCheck) to check for accidents, title issues, and service records
- For certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicles, understand exactly what the certification covers
- Private party purchases are often cheaper but come with less recourse if problems arise
How Much Can You Save?
A buyer who prepares can realistically save $1,000-3,000 on a new car purchase and $500-2,000 on a used vehicle compared to an unprepared buyer.
On a $30,000 vehicle, that's 3-10% — worth a few hours of research and the willingness to negotiate.